18 Folgate Street (Dennis Severs' House)

Photo by Roelof Bakker

On arriving at number 18 Folgate Street, you sense something unusual is about to unfold, stepping back in time from the moment you pull the wonderful old doorbell (definitely no fandangled push bell with a bad rendition of Greensleeves here.) The friendly proprietor of the house greets you in a hushed voice, giving simple instructions as to what to expect and where to go, and then you're on your own, a humble figure transported right back to the 18th century, left to roam around this extraordinary house at your leisure. No talking allowed.

In short, 18 Folgate Street is a time capsule which was created by a Californian artist called Dennis Severs, who wanted to use the imagination of the visiting public as a canvas for his art, giving the visitor the sense of walking directly into, and being part of a still life masterpiece, whilst creating a completely unique experience. It really is an experience, not a museum!

Photo by Roelof Bakker

Dennis Severs' journey was a strange one.  He loved English history so much, he decided to upsticks from America and followed his heart to London in search of a home, which he found at 18 Folgate Street in 1979.  In the 1970's, the area around Spitalfields and Shoreditch was particularly run down and inhabited by struggling artists and fellow Bohemian types - a far cry from the hip, trendy and happening place it is today.  The house had no lighting or heating, and to this day, it remains the same, relying on candlelight, log fires and coal burners.

The property was in a very run-down state when Severs bought it, but before he started restoring it back to the splendour of what it would have been in the 18th century, he decided to sleep in each of the ten rooms so he could get a proper feel for the place and unveil its secrets.  He would then spend the next 20 years until his death in 1999, lovingly transforming the house into the enchanting time capsule it still is today.  He sourced pieces of old furniture and various obscure and original objects which he picked up along the way or found at local markets, and painstakingly decorated the house from top to bottom. 

The most interesting and curious thing of all is the Jervis family.  An entirely fictional family that Dennis Severs created to live in the house with him. They were French Huguenot silk weavers who had fled persecution in France in 1688 and bought the house in 1724.  Despite them being completely imaginary, Severs has managed to create an enormous sense of reality.  And even more strange is that despite him living there in very recent times (1979-1999), he lived alongside his 'housemates' as if it was still the 1700's, cooking and cleaning with no modern facilities at all. 

Photo by Roelof Bakker

As a visitor, it really does feel as if you're having a good old snoop around the house whilst the Jervis family are there. Everything has been left exactly as if they've just left each room, and you're almost convinced that if you're quick enough, you may catch a glimpse of them. The beds are unmade and probably still warm.  Mrs Jervis' cup of tea and half eaten boiled egg is still on the table in her bedroom. A pair of children's shoes are on the kitchen floor.  Mr Jervis' coat is slung on a chair.  The dining room reveals remnants of a recent dinner party and unfinished glasses of port. You can hear the sound of a horse-drawn carriage on the cobbled street outside. Freshly baked cakes and scones on the kitchen table alongside half peeled sprouts. The soft scent of oranges. A clock ticks and a door slams upstairs - footsteps on the staircase. The warmth of the crackling fire and the flickering of candles.  It's all so real.

On entering one of the rooms, you look up at the large Hogarth painting above the fireplace which depicts a scene of a raucous bunch around a table.  A table adorned with a fallen candlestick, a blue and white painted bowl, half empty glasses of wine and a red coat hanging on the wall. Then you look closely and realise you are in fact in that very room, standing in front of a table adorned with a fallen candlestick, a blue and white painted bowl....  You are part of the painting.  Eerie, yet mesmerising.

Photo by Roelof Bakker

I think everyone's visit to Dennis Severs' house is unique to the individual as it depends how open-minded you are. There will be those who don't 'get' it and are quick to trivialise it as a glorified museum. And then there are those with a good imagination and a sense of intrigue who will appreciate the art and mystery. After all, the motto of the house is Aut visum aut non!  You either see it or you don't!

Dennis Sever's House, 

18 Folgate Street, 

Spitalfields, 

London E1

Open every Sunday 12pm - 4pm  Entry cost: £8

Check website for other opening times including special candlelit tours

dennissevershouse.co.uk

F&L Supper Club for The Jamie Oliver Foundation

As a bit of a supper club regular, I felt very honoured to be invited along to Fernandez & Leluu's charity dinner on behalf of the Jamie Oliver Foundation. F&L are by far one of the best supper clubs in London, so I knew the evening was going to be a good one...

I made my way to F&L's HQ in Hackney to join a host of other diners including fellow bloggers, competition winners and representatives from Yell.com and the Jamie Oliver Foundation.  The event was sponsored by Trusted Places which is the review site for Yell.com, and an impressive £1,400 was raised for the the foundation. Well done Yell!

F&L, together with a couple of chefs from Jamie's 'Fifteen' restaurant, cooked up a storm using quality ingredients, all kindly donated by various suppliers, including Fin & Flounder's fantastic fish, and the East London Steak Company's amazing steak.  Green & Black's were also present with an abundance of tasty chocolate. Not to mention some really excellent wine from Naked Wines.  I bonded particularly well with the South African 'Arabella' Cabernet Sauvignon!

The menu had all the signature F&L traits comprising copious tasty and varied dishes. We started with a beautifully presented platter of sushi, followed by a cheesy bacon and tomato swirl (with a shot of fresh tomato juice).  Then came the oxtail which literally fell off the bone.  Next up was a delicious ceviche made with white fish marinaded in lime and coconut milk.  As if that wasn't enough, along came some seriously good steak complete with veg and perfect roast potatoes.  We just managed to leave a tiny space to squeeze in a homemade lemon fudge slice which came with a mourish popcorn ice cream.  This is definitely my new favourite ice cream flavour.  A feast indeed!

The event was a huge success and such a friendly bunch of people all having a good time and reluctant to leave. I didn't leave until 2am, which says it all. Big thanks to Fernandez & Leluu for hosting yet another great evening.

Wilton's Music Hall

Hidden down a little alleyway, just a short stroll from Tower Bridge, is Wilton's - the world's oldest surviving Victorian music hall.  And it is without doubt, one of my absolute favourite secret places in London.

Opened by John Wilton in 1858, Wilton's is a historical and wonderful treasure.  As well as playing the part of a grand music hall in its heyday, it was also used as a rag warehouse, a home for missionaries and a very welcome shelter during the war.  In fact, it survived both World Wars and is so steeped in history, that its current delapidated and worn out state is instantly enchanting, and you can't help but be filled with curiousity and wonder as to what and who has frequented its very being in years gone by.  The second floor is completely boarded up and not open to the public due to its precarious state, but The Wilton's Trust who now own the building, are raising funds towards getting Wilton's back to a safer state of repair and former glory, but hopefully without spoiling its derelict appeal.














I first visited Wilton's a few years ago when I went to see a fantastic burlesque show, and instantly fell in love with the place and all its glorious, crumbling character.  There's a lot to be said for exposed brickwork, old wooden floors and well worn flagstones. The feet of many a well-known actor, showgirl, musician and cabaret performer have undoubtedly trodden the boards at Wilton's.


I recently returned and took a couple of friends for drinks to the fantastic Mahogany Bar which was built around 1725 and has been a public house ever since, although the rich mahogany features have sadly been stripped away over the years.  The bar alone is really amazing with such a warm and welcoming ambience. We found ourselves a cosy corner where we sat quaffing wine and beer, whilst  losing ourselves in the atmosphere. The clientele are a real mixture including locals, musicians, workmen, curious wanderers who've simply stumbled upon it, and no doubt, the odd off-duty Beefeater!

Being a Friday evening, it filled up quickly (it was cinema club night) and soon reached a crescendo of happy banter.  Then out of nowhere, two people appeared with a large antique sideboard piled high with  freshly made cheese and ham rolls for sale.  The perfect accompaniment for a Wilton's glass of ale. If we weren't en route to dinner elsewhere, I am sure we could have quite happily whiled away the entire evening in the Mahogany Bar.

The main hall is beautiful, despite its faded, derelict glamour, which in my eyes completely adds to its charm.  You can totally imagine just how resplendent it would have been back in the day.

Even though it is only open during the week, there is a so much going on at Wilton's.  Whether you want to attend a cabaret, magic show, guided tour, fashion lecture, ping-pong tournament, cinema club, classical concert or jazz evening, there truly is something for everyone.  Even just partaking in a few drinks and a roll in the bar.

Wilton's are always looking for volunteers, so if you'd like to get involved, give them a call.  You can also become a friend or patron and do your bit to help.  Check the website for upcoming events.

Wilton's Music Hall, 1 Graces Alley, London, E1 8JB
Mahogany Bar open 5pm - 11pm Monday - Friday

Meateasy (aka The Meat Wagon)

Oh my!  It's not often I write about something within moments of having been there, but having just returned from Meateasy, I thought the best way to wait for the 'mother of all burgers' to digest, would be to blog about it.  If you've kept an eye on my 'This Week's Special' page, you will know all about Meateasy and The Meat Wagon. But for those of you who haven't got a clue, then listen up!

In a nutshell, there's this cool guy called Yianni Papoutsis who had a shiny burger van he called The Meat Wagon, from which he would sell the most excellent burgers in all the land.  But alas, last December, some mean crooks nicked his beloved wagon from its home in Peckham ('nuff said) and our wagon-less Burger Buddy was at a very loose end.  But life has a funny way of working itself out and it would seem those wagon-pinching numpties actually did our hero a favour.  Because when Yianni was devising a plan on how to save enough money to buy another wagon, a terrific 'lightbulb' moment dawned on him.  He would sell his infamous burgers from a speakeasy type venue which he found in the perfect place above an old pub in New Cross, SE14. And thus, Meateasy was born.

Above The Goldsmith's Tavern (currently being refurbished and soon to become New Cross House) on New Cross Road, you will find Meateasy, discreetly tucked away in true speakeasy style, through an unsuspecting side door and up some stairs clad in garish threadbare carpeting. Once inside, it's like entering burger Narnia, as if everyone in there knows something which the passers-by on the street below are simply oblivious to. It's a good feeling. Even when I arrive at 6pm, the place is already heaving. The crowd is a real mixture of all ages and walks of life from carefree students to wisened professionals. But all united with the same goal - to experience a Meateasy burger. Feverish excitement and anticipation is written on everyone's hungry lips. Meateasy operate a ticket service, so while I waited for my number to come up, I found a seat (table sharing is absolutely the norm here) and took everything in around me. Decor-wise, Meateasy is very cosy and down to earth, the walls are decorated with endless book pages, low-watt coloured lighting, vintage lampshades and a random mixture of tables and chairs.  There's a well-stocked bar on one side which even sells bottles of Meateasy beer!  Music plays unobtrusively in the background, drowned out by the humming chatter.

Once I place my order, it's a short wait until my name is called above the din, and it's time to tuck in.  The food is served on paper plates with hefty quantities of kitchen roll and is all part of the wonderful, unpretentious vibe.  I ordered a bacon cheeseburger with coleslaw and onion rings.  To be honest, the 'slaw' and rings weren't much to write home about.  But the burger... Well, that was absolutely magnificent.  Made with 28 day dry-aged beef, the hunk of a patty is just as a burger should be.  Positioned between a homemade soft sourdough bun with generous additions of gherkin, lettuce, onion, cheese, bacon and mustard, it was a proper, sloppy delight.

If for some peculiar reason, burgers aren't your thing, then there are a host of other things on the chalkboard menu for you to choose from, including Mac & Cheese, Chilli Cheese Dog and a Philly Cheese Steak Roll, which all looked equally delicious.  Note: Meateasy probably isn't a popular veggie hangout! Price-wise it's very reasonable, you're looking at around seven quid for a burger plus three quid for fries. It's open 6pm - 11pm Tue - Sat and is due to stay at its current location until at least mid-March. But fingers tightly crossed that as Meateasy has been filled to the rafters day in, day out since it opened in January, hopefully Yianni will be feeling the love so much, that he will make it a permanent fixture (Yianni, are you listening?!)  It's by far the best burger joint in South East London and has definitely put New Cross on the map, as people are venturing far and wide to try out this little corner of meat heaven.

Yianni's initial aim was to make enough money to buy another wagon, but I reckon he's doing so well, he could buy a fleet of diamond-encrusted wagons at the rate he's going.  The return of The Meat Wagon would be cool for festivals and random London roaming in the summer months, but I do hope its return won't be the Meateasy's demise.  Surely it's only fair we have both!  I am very fortunate to live in New Cross (I never thought I'd hear myself say that!), and as Meateasy is at the end of my road, I for one will be petitioning for it to stay put.  And to open on Sundays would be good too, as it would go oh so well with the papers and a Bloody Mary.  Let's just hope the New Cross House pub is also a winner when it opens in spring.  In the meantime, I strongly urge you to get yourself to Meateasy whilst you can.

STOP PRESS!

Nov 2011, the guys behind Meateasy and Meat Wagon have now launched a permanent restaurant called...

MEAT LIQUOR

Corner of Henrietta & Welbeck Street

London W1G 0BA

Tel: 020 7224 4239

@MEATliquor

Open: 12pm - 2am Tue - Sat

Balham Supper Club

I ventured off to Balham last week, as a guest at The Supper Club London, where I was greeted with a glass of Codorniu sparkling wine and a warm welcome from the host, John. He and his lovely assistant busied themselves in the kitchen as the guests all got acquainted over their fizz. Before long we sat down for dinner and I was lucky to share a table with four really fun diners, including two Greeks, an Italian and a Welsh St Lucian. It was a continental laugh-a-minute!

The starter was a cream of cauliflower soup which was certainly creamy and came with a plate of homemade savoury biscuits. However, it was rather lacking in presentation and just a bit bland, but nothing a sprinkle of croutons, a sprig of garnish and a hint of seasoning couldn't put right. Next came the main course of game pie with seasonal vegetables. More of a stew than a pie really, the meat was a medley of tender venison, rabbit and pheasant in an interesting orange-infused gravy all topped off with a perfectly baked individual pastry crust to give it the 'pie' touch. Personally, I'm not a big fan of celeriac or pearl barley, so the pale soft side dishes really didn't  appeal to me, although the mange tout and green beans did add some necessary colour and crunch to the dish. Meanwhile, the wine, wit, company and conversation continued to flow at such a great pace, that even Splodge the Cat decided to join in!

The piece de resistance was the pudding. Pears poached in Sauterne with homemade chocolate ice cream.  I think poached pears must be the Pud du Jour as they've popped up at several supper clubs I've been to of late. But this was unique as it came with some very impressive sugar work - delicate thin caramelised sugar legs gently leaning against the pear as it nestled in a pool of seriously good chocolate.

As a lecturer by day, John enjoys using his spare time to pursue his interest in cooking, hence The Supper Club London.  He really was a great host and you can tell he thoroughly enjoys orchestrating his supper evenings, putting his all into it. Despite the fact that some of the dishes weren't necessarily to my taste (and not forgetting it is a supper club, not a restaurant) on a culinary note, I would say the food offered is good, wholesome, home-cooked grub. I especially like the fact that the vegetables and herbs are grown in John's nearby allotment - a nice personal touch.

Whilst some supper clubs charge absurd amounts for a fairly mediocre meal, and others are perhaps justified in charging more due to their exceptional, almost professional chef quality type meal, John has got it just right by charging a reasonable £20 per head for a respectable 3 course dinner.  It was a happy, relaxed and most enjoyable evening and due to the excellent company, it carried on very late into the Balham night. There are various dates coming up at The Supper Club London, so check the website to make a booking.  Just add wine!

The Clown Church, Dalston

Last Sunday, a friend and I went to Church. But not any Church.  It was the Holy Trinity in Dalston, aka The Clown Church. On the first Sunday of February each year, a very unique service takes place in memory of the famous King of Clowns, Joseph 'Joey' Grimaldi (1778-1837).  Along with the normal congregation and clergy, a host of clowns from across the land, and in all manner of age, size, slap and regalia, make the annual journey to honour their hero.

It was certainly a surreal and colourful affair, and as it is so popular, we were fortunate enough to arrive in time to secure ourselves a pew. The opening hymn was 'Lord of the Dance', during which the Clowns and Clergy arrived down the aisle. A musical performance by Eek & Mr Mudge followed by a few clever magic tricks caused much delight to the numerous children in the congregation. Yet amidst the slapstick, japery, juggling, bubble-blowing and horn-honking, the service is in fact a proper religious affair, which despite the contradiction, the clowns take very seriously indeed. There were a few readings (one was read by The Rt Hon John Bercow, speaker of the House of Commons) and a lot of hymns, which the clowns sang along to in a hearty voice whilst tapping their over-sized comedy shoe-clad toes. 

A slightly more sombre and quite moving part of the service, was when 'Send in the Clowns' started playing softly in the background as candles were lit to accompany the laying of a wreath (resembling a clown face as far as I could tell from the quick glimpse I caught of it) in memory of clowns who have passed away.  The Chaplain quietly read out the names including Bilbo, Frosty, Buddi, Sir Norman Wisdom and The Unknown Clown.  The Clowns then read together The Clown's Prayer, thanking God for the precious gift of laughter.

Grimaldi was born in Clerkenwell and spent most of his life living in Islington, including 10 years in Exmouth Market which is commemorated by a blue plaque. He followed his father's pantomime-esque footsteps and performed his stage debut at the Sadlers Wells theatre aged three.

It was in 1946 that Clowns International was founded and the clowns started their memorial service for Grimaldi each year at St James' Church, Islington (where Grimaldi is buried in the graveyard, now called Grimaldi Park on Pentonville Road, N1). The Church was demolished having suffered bomb damage in the war, hence they relocated their annual service to Holy Trinity, Dalston as of 1959, where it has been held ever since.

The Clowns Gallery (which has moved from Holy Trinity to the Mill House at Wookey Hole in Somerset) houses various wonderful clown exhibits.  The most popular being the famous collection of painted clown eggs. When a new clown joins, they have their slap (hair/make-up) registered by having the look replicated onto an egg so as to make sure their look is unique to them.  Traditionally, they were painted onto chicken eggs, but now pottery eggs are used.  Apparently, when a clown dies, his egg is smashed. 

It was definitely a Church service like no other and I'm really glad I had a chance to experience it. If you'd like to attend, put the first Sunday of February in your diary. Don't forget your red nose and squirty plastic flower. Or perhaps you'd like to become a proper clown! In which case you'll find everything you need to know at Clowns International. Honk, honk!